Cristina Dan
  • What is circular fashion design

△A Sneak Peek at the Exclusive Trend Studio  ¦ PeclersParis, Carlin, WGSN.△

23/10/2015

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​The world as we know it today finds ideas and information the most powerful tool. In the fashion industry, insight on upcoming trends is one of the most valuable pieces of information a designer could have. Luckily for me, Scandinavians are big on uniting forces when it comes to assuring a strong position in the international fashion scene.

​For the last past 4 weeks I’ve been having the privilege of visiting the exclusive Dansk Fashion and Textile who is providing the entire industry with analyses, events, training, projects, networking and political work. Companies may choose to become a member in exchange of a substantial fee. 


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​Among these services, they have a wonderful unique trend library. A designer may be granted access to it but the costs are very high so before one may do this he/she should consider if the investment will be returned. Big and influential companies come here before they start designing for a new season, that way they can stay up to date with the “next big thing” on design trends. 
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​The trend library is equipped with the latest books and materials from internationally renowned trend agencies such as PeclersParis, A+A and Carlin as well as a constantly updated electronic trend database – WGSN; basically a designer’s wonderland and a lovely space to get inspired. Needless to say I lost my marbles the first time I went there. Given its classified content, you are allowed only pen and paper in the library. Fortunately, I got a special pass to take some photos for my article, to give you a visual.
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Slowglam, Nature Spun, Metallic Ombré, Artificial Animism – to name a few of the trend books forecast titles I have noted down for the 2017 predictions. Fortunately I managed to meet my main goal which was, of course, to complete my previous research and train of thoughts I had for my new upcoming project. I will, of course, keep you posted ;) 
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△denim close up△

9/10/2015

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It’s the most popular item in your wardrobe, but have you ever wondered about your jean’s quality and the fibers they are made of? Why does the colour wear out more quickly for some pairs and why some of them feel softer against your skin?
​In order to understand what makes better denim fabric I’ve done some fabric tests, on a widely used denim fabric, according to European (ISO) testing standards such as: colour fastness to washing and rubbing, fiber composition and yarn structure.
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​For the first test, a GyroWash machine is used to determine colour fastness to washing, dry cleaning and chlorinated water. Both colour staining and colour change tests revealed fair quality, giving a grade of 4/5 out of 5. ECLA’s (The European Apparel and Textile Confederation) recommendation is at least 4 for colour staining and color change.[1]


[1] Colour staining assessed according to grey scale ISO 105-A03 (light grey) was 4/5 out of 5, and colour change was also 4/5.
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​The last 2 tests regarding fiber composition and yarn structure revealed 100% cotton fiber and an OE spun yarn. OE spun yarn is fuzzier and will always absorb colour better into its core, therefore it will be more colour resistant. 

All in all, the fabric that was tested passed the ECLA’s recommendation but there can be better results.



Advice for users:
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​The second test (colour fastness to rubbing) required a Crockmeter (Wear & Abrasion Tester) and the test was executed with both a dry and a wet cotton piece. Both tests reported a decent reaction of the material to rubbing, resulting in a grade of 4/5 out of 5 for dry cotton and 3/4 for wet cotton.  ECLA’s recommendation is at least 4 for dry colour staining and 3-4 for wet colour staining. [2]


[2] Assessed staining according to grey scale ISO 105-A03 was 4/5 for dry cotton and ¾ for wet cotton.
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  • When buying jeans, take a look at the fabric label, it should say whether it is an OE or ring-spun yarn. Go for the OE, the colour of your jeans will last longer.
  • Although you may think cotton is the best fiber to have in your denim, it is not. Cottonized hemp would be the best solution both for your skin and the environment.
Remember that good design= responsible design for both you and the environment.  
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Este cel mai popular element din garderoba ta, dar te-ai întrebat vreodată despre calitatea si fibrele din care sunt realizati blugii tai? De ce rezista culoarea mai putin pentru unele perechi si de ce anumiti blugi se simt mai moi pe pielea ta?
Pentru a înțelege mai bine ceea ce inseamna o tesatura buna de denim, am ales un tip de denim regasit in mare masura pe piata si am făcut cateva teste pt tesatura in conformitate cu standardele (ISO) de testare european, cum ar fi: rezistența culorii la spălare și frecare, compoziția fibrei și structura de fire.

Pentru primul test, a fost folosita masina GyroWash pentru a determina rezistenta culorii la spălare, curățare uscată și apa cu clor.Atat testul pentru transferul de culoare cat si cel pentru decolorare au dezvaluit o calitate echitabila a materialului, oferind o nota de 4/5 din 5. Recomandarea  ECLA (Confederatia Europeana de Imbracaminte și Textile) este de cel puțin 4 pentru transferul de culoare și schimbare de culoare. [1]

Al doilea test (Rezistența culorii la frecare) a necesitat folosirea unui crockmeter (tester pentru purtare si abraziune). Testul a fost executat atât cu o bucată de bumbac umed cat si una uscata. Ambele teste au aratat o reactie decenta a materialului la procesul de frecare, rezultand o nota de 4/5 din 5 pentru bumbacul uscat si o nota de 3/4 pentru bumbacul umed. Recomandarea ECLA este de cel puțin 4 pentru transferal de culoare pe bumbac uscat și 3-4 pentru transferul de culoare pentru bumbacul umed.[2]

Ultimele 2 teste privind compoziția fibrei și structura firelor a dezvăluit fibre de bumbac 100% și o tesatura OE (open-end) pentru fire. Tesatura OE este încețoșată și va absorbi întotdeauna culoare mai bine în miezul ei, prin urmare, materialul textil va avea o rezistenta mai crescuta a culorii.
In concluzie, tesatura care a fost testate a trecut recomandarea ECLA, dar exista tesaturi care pot oferi rezultate si mai bune.
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Sfaturi pentru utilizatori:
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  • Atunci când cumpărati blugi, aruncati o privire la eticheta ce priveste tesatura, aceasta ar trebui să spun dacă este o OE sau ring-spun. Alegeti OE, culoarea blugilor va dura mai mult.
  • Bumbacul nu este cea mai buna fibra pe care o puteti avea in denim. Cânepa cottonizata este cea mai bună soluție atât pentru pielea voastra cat și pentru mediul inconjurator.
Amintiți-vă că un design bun = proiectare responsabila atat pentru voi cat si pentru mediu.
 


[1] Transferul de culoare evaluat în funcție de gri ISO 105-A03 (gri deschis) a fost 4/5 din 5, și schimbarea culorii a fost de asemenea 4/5.

[2]
Transferul de culoare evaluat în funcție de gri ISO 105-A03 a fost 4/5 pentru bumbac uscat și 3/4 pentru bumbac umed.
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  • What is circular fashion design